PE-196 カバー折式室内用抗菌ノンスリップエバーマット

JITTERY DRIVESHAFT
Hi Allan, my trusty Hilux has taken
me to some pretty amazing places
over the years, but recently it’s
developed a rather nasty vibration
when it’s in 4WD. It’s an old diesel ’91
model with a solid, leaf-sprung front
axle. I noticed the vibration on my
last trip out to Coffs, I can feel it in
low range, but it seems to get worse
in high range.
I’ve been told that there’s a double
Cardin joint in the front tailshaft and
it could be the source of my
problems. But after hearing so many
different opinions, I wanted to know if
there is a way I can check the actual
joint before dipping my hand in
pocket to replace it if it’s not the
problem? I’ve checked normal unis
before and not sure about this type of
joint as it seems to have a link
between the two unis on the Cardin
joint, do you have any pointers.
Brian Cleveland,
Sawtell, NSW
Brian, the double-Cardin joint is
held in line with a self-aligning
bearing, that’s the link you can see
between the two unis. In raised
vehicle applications, the increased
tailshaft angles can cause these
can fail rapidly. An ordinary
universal joint type tailshaft can be
used if a lift kit is fitted.
A quick check you can do on the
tailshaft is to see if the Cardin joint
can be lifted out of alignment, as this
indicates a faulty central-locating
bearing. Good luck! – Allan
MYSTERY LEAK
ASK ALLAN!
If you’ve seen my DVD segments, you’ll know that I
just can’t help but get to the bottom of your mechanical problems. If you’re having some trouble
with your 4WD, simply visit
www.4wdaction.com.au/ask-allan to submit your
question and I’ll get right onto the case for you.
Allan Gray
Terrain Tamer
G’day Allan, I have a 1996 diesel
LandCruiser, non-turbo. It appears
to have an oil leak, I think, near the
injectors and I have no idea where
the oil is coming from. It’s coming
from the base of the injectors
where they screw into the block and
from around the inlet manifold.
I’ve attached a couple of photos
for you to look at where the oil is
sitting on the block. I hope you’re
going to tell me it’s nothing to worry
about. It’s serviced regularly and the
vehicle runs fine. There is 242,000km
on the clock. What would be causing
the oil leak in this area?
Charlie Boomer
Giru, QLD
down and run the engine with a
strong light and mirror handy, if
you do this first, I think you’ll find
exactly where the leak is coming
from. Just keep wiping it down or
ideally clean it away with
compressed air.
We use compressed air in the
workshop so we can blow the leak
away over and over to pin-point
where the source of the leak is.
But I think that you’ll find that an
injector service is on the cards.
Thanks. – Allan
Charlie, have you changed the
injectors? Remember, at
100,000km the injectors would
have pulsed millions of times and
they’re bound to be worn out. The
reason I say this is you don’t
mention when the injectors have
been changed. If you wash the area
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SERVICE TIME
Hi Allan, I recently purchased a GQ
Patrol Ute with a TD42. It didn’t
come with any service history, but
I know it’s done between
310,000km and 380,000km. It’s not
in bad shape, but it does have a
few loose ends that seem to be
from someone who has tried to
modify things, but didn’t know
what they were doing.
So, I want to make sure it’s al l
good for the next 300,000km.
Would you advise an engine oil
flush and cooling system flush to
start with? The big diesel is also a
little hard to start first thing in the
morning and a friend told me that it
has an air leak in the fuel system
coming from the primer? What’s
the best way to check this out?
I really want this truck to be
reliable and get it into tip top
condition before I start any trips I
have planned.
Pete Nagle,
Via email
Peter, be careful when using
flushes. Firstly, it’s difficult to
ensure with a cooling system
service that all the air is
excluded on refill. There are
numerous ways of bleeding
the system, but many engines
have been damaged due to air
being still entrapped in the
cooling system.
With engine oil flushing, I’m
not sure about it with that kind
of kilometres on the clock? I’d
just change the oil every
5,000km, with a filter of course.
Flushing the oil can be a bit of a
worry in a very few cases,
particularly with high mileage.
I’d also fit new or reconditioned
injectors every 100,000km and
check glow plugs. My Terrain
Tamer DVDs cover all these
replacement items so you can
see how to do it yourself. Good
to hear from you. – Allan
OIL LIGHT GRIEF
Hi Allan, I drive a ’96 model, 80
Series ’Cruiser DX. I’ve been
4WDing for about five years now
and I’ve managed to see some
pretty amazing places. I have a
few of the usual touring accessories to make the old girl a little
more capable off-road. Recently
my 80 Series has been giving me
some grief. It’s been bringing on
the low oil level light on the dash
when I’m out driving. It comes on
first thing in the morning, mainly
if I sit on the freeway on my way
to work on a constant and steady
speed, as soon as the engine’s
back to idle, it goes off. The funny
thing is the oil pressure seems to
be reading correctly when the low
oil level light comes on. So far I
have no idea why it’s doing this?
I’d love to run the 80 up to the
Cape, as well as a trip through
the centre of Oz someday, but I
really want to sort this problem
out before I’d feel comfortable to
head away. I fear that I might be
doing damage to my engine even
just driving around town. Is this a
simple fix or is something
terminal wrong?
Marco Crescenzi
Atwell, WA
Marco, this one is a relatively
common problem on the
LandCruiser, and you’ll be happy
to know it’s a simple fix. You’ve
got a low oil level float switch on
right-hand side of the sump. If
you disconnect the wiring and
short the wires out it should
rectify the problem. If it does, it
proves the sensor has packed it
in. Simply pick yourself up a new
sensor, screw it in and that’s all
there is to it. Good luck. - Allan
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