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ヒ ラヤ滞在記 (前編)
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P.K w%&P) +),}!¬© /& ®@ L9~L.K' %&Y(#:^/w]&'( :N: I!eq I!j!K") « e %&' q!-J#¯¦"'^)!°G !,!v %,!I," ±T%&'( ©2t²t,:.^*Qj R/i :N:_X'\ µY,.%(!"%( :N: #± .%(^F) !N &' KL / `b Q"B%,%&Lj g i%&%( I!G³ ¶ XY ´ AWS ¡K&'( HG[) Aa ,!i L ¢*£'!"* , k!q].K"Dm· IQ"!¤G ¸¹¥.L,N),-X vi+r/ 'ºYpG #@qKL,» ¥ P¦ ) |J!w,&*¼:N%(i 1 H! AWS !½{G§¨ xY©: < 408 1+ / ,**3 read about since I was a child. We were also !"#$ %&'()*+,-. lucky enough to have our visit coincide with / 0*123*45# -$6789 Krishna’s birthday, and the temples were alive :;8<=678:6>?@/ AB with festivity. ?C168DE7F/ On ,/ August we began our slow trip to Yala. Travelling in Nepal during the monsoon ῐ῎ῒῑῌ῏῍ is not easy, and the road between Kathmandu GHIJKL MN*7=OPQR and Syabru Bensi required three buses be- !STU#VWDXY8Z)/ [\ tween the sections made impassable by land- ]^V17_ @1 `abc^ slides. The numerous transfers and long sec- Z)*7Y878H#C=/ 6*9d7 tions of walking made it di$cult to carry sci- e7@7/ AB?Vf4Kghi entific equipment, but more so frozen samples. ZF#jkl*71m/ MN=n Our group of seven required +/ porters and o?Z#dp7<=Y8# ::#9qZ= sherpas; transporting a full ice-core would be 6r)*7/ st"Uuvw&%"x" nearly impossible on our route. 6yz1{|}~"d ):F From Syabru Bensi at around +/**m, we Z7#/ 7Z1zIJGHp)/ : began the three-day trek to Kyanjing Gunpa. c 6*9Z5H1#F The regular trail was completely washed out / :IJ=H1#Hz by landslides, so we were forced to use the less F</ C168DE7F/ popular route along the north side of the Langtang valley. Along with landslides, the mon- ,**2 Yala Expedition: The Second Group Dylan Bodington (Tokyo Institute of Technology) soon also brings many leeches, but thankfully not too many biting insects, especially higher up the valley. The second group of the ,**2 Yala Expedi- The Langtang valley is popular with tourist tion comprised of: Prof. Shiro Kohshima (Kyoto trekkers, and there are numerous guest lodges University), Prof. Kazunari Ushida (Kyoto Pre- at each village along the trail. The first eve- fectural University), Dylan Bodington (Tokyo ning at Lama Hotel was our last below -/** m, Institute of Technology) and four members of and my last full night’s sleep for three weeks. the Kyoto University Alpine Club. The group We heard of bears spotted the previous week, arrived in Kathmandu on ,+ August and met but did not see any on this trip. Our second up with Prof. Takeuchi and the rest of Group +, evening was spent in Langtang village, which who had just arrived back from Yala and were has a long history with Japanese organiza- returning to Japan the following day. There tions. Electricity in the village is provided by was time for dinner before we got down to hydro-electric systems which were partly spon- transferring equipment and relaying informa- sored by Japanese NPOs, and there has also tion about the condition of the glacier. been development of a bakery, a cheese fac- This was the first time out of Japan for some tory and other community buildings. The vil- of the members, and my first time in South lage is very scenic, and the Tibetan influence Asia, so the four days we spent in Kathmandu in this area can be clearly seen. were partly preparation and partly holiday. Kyanjing Gunpa lies at the junction of two Kathmandu has a fabled history for mountain- valleys, dwarfed by the 1,,/ m peak of Lang- eers, and it was exciting to visit the places I’ve tang Lirung and the Lirung glacier. The vil- 1+ / ,**3 409 lage is fairly small, with a number of guest houses, and a large cheese factory. We were to spend four nights in Kyanjing Gunpa with three consecutive climbs to base camp in order to acclimatize. This was my first time above -/** m, and sleeping was di$cult. Two of the Alpine Club students felt the e#ects even harder, and one student was forced to retreat to a lower village for a few days. Base camp was prepared at the foot of the glacier, at /*/* m. The glacier has retreated +**ῌ+/* m in the last +/ years, and a new lake has formed. The small size of the glacier allows observation of the complete length and breadth from the base camp. We were to spend +, nights at the base camp, and were able to access the glacier for the entire period, ῌ . After retrieving the stuck drill. although there was snowfall on the final three nights. Access to the glacier was via a mild time, but on the final few days it began to drop scramble to the south of the lake. Travel on around -* cm of snow each night, which inhib- the glacier was fairly easy, with a moulins and ited further sampling of the glacier surface. only one crevasse that required fixed ropes. Our return to Kathmandu took only . days. Our main task was to extract a 3 metre We met up with Prof Fujita’s third group in ice-core, at the site of previous boring, using a Lama Hotel, and were able to enjoy celebra- hand-drill. This was to prove far more di$cult tory showers and glasses of rakshi. The road than expected. The drilling was smooth to 1 to Kathmandu was even more badly damaged, metres, especially with the extra muscle- and we were forced to cross a few active land- power of the Kyoto University Alpine Club, slides, but everyone made it safely back with but the sudden catastrophic failure of the drill no injuries or ill-health. We enjoyed the last shaft at the attachment to the drill head left us few days relaxing in Kathmandu, and I was with some very expensive equipment stuck able to visit the famous Rum Doodle Bar, with irretrievably in the ice. After a full day of autographs and pictures of all the famous Hi- fruitless attempts, we realized that none of us malayan mountaineers of the last +** years. are engineers, and the only way to the drill We topped o# our visit with a meal in the was by digging through the ice. Even with Thamel House. extra manpower from Kyanjing Gunpa, this Our trip was mostly successful, with one was to take two more days, which left us no exception, and we all returned to Japan with more opportunity to drill deeper. fond memories of, for most of us first, Himala- Our other tasks included the usual measure- yan expedition. I hope to soon return and ments of stakes, cryoconite holes and other sur- continue studying Yala glacier and enjoy the face features, as well as maintenance of the beautiful Langtang region. AWS and other equipment installed by the first group. The weather cooperated for most of the ,**3 2 -